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Attire. In Detail.

Color for Men.
We've talked before about the basic concepts surrounding attire and accoutrements for men.

I'm often complimented on my attire, even when I go out casual.

It's something I take pride in, to wear clothing that looks great, and looks great on me.

Let's go in a bit deeper now to discuss specific colors for the seasons.

A great shirt may not look quite so great out of season.

While it's true that there are classic, traditional styles that last all year long, they can also subcommunicate a lack of risk taking.

Men's clothing is more expressive and interesting than ever.

Sure, there was that wild explosion of styles in the late 60s-early 70s, but looking back that's kind of how it looks.

Like one big explosion - a pent-up culture far too conservative for far too long, looking to wear and do anything just to break convention.

Today's styles are expressive, and subtle.

By being expressive, I don't mean like some freakshow or mr. circus. Subtlety is key. Seek out subtle design patterns; embroidery is extremely stylish right now.

A great book came out a few years ago, "Color For Men," by Carole Jackson. The concept of matching colors to the calendar are really great, and I'd like to share them with you.

These concepts run the range in men's wear - from casual to formal.

Be prepared to spend some money on your attire.

End of season sales are fantastic, but be smart. Sure you can buy a shirt at a 70 percent discount, but you may only get a few weeks of use out of the item before the seasonal colors change, unless you choose well.

Many times the sizes are limited as well - don't buy something that looks great that doesn't fit just because it's on sale. You'll never wear it, and if you do it probably won't look good on you.

General tips on clothes:

The look right now is loose and comfortable, without being sloppy. Form-fitting, NOT puffy. Do not wear anything puffy (pleated pants, puffy jackets, fluffy sweaters or shirts. INSTANT turnoff.) They must be, and look to be - well fitting and comfortable. Do not wear pants or shirts that are either too big or too small.

Wear untucked shirts that are pressed, open collared shirts with a clean, complimenting solid nylon undershirt, to mix it up. The key to a sharp look, whether going out for business or casual affairs, is to wear at least two very classy items, contrasting otherwise casual items (IE - nice shoes and shirt, scrappy jeans; great jeans and shoes, scrappy shirt) - these combinations tell the world 'you get it.' You have taste and style; enough so to know how to mix it up.

Specifics:

Ties are best left for formal events and portraits. They may come back in style, but as of 2005, ties have very limited application.

Jeans are more than casual wear. Much more.

Designer jeans of the early 80s have nothing on the current array of upscale demin pants.

Women are VERY aware of jeans and their brands;

nothing tells a woman you get it more than a great pair of jeans (its more than brand awareness - high end denim simply look great: again, loose and comfortable but not sloppy).

Here's a continuum on jeans:
On the low end you've got department jeans, Gap/Denim, Old Navy (somewhat stylish but everyone knows their jeans are very inexpensive) - on the high end you've got Lucky, 7s and even more unique boutique cuts. Be prepared to have 2-3 really great cut jeans - they can run $80-$150 a pair. They'll make you look so great, they are worth every penny.

In contrast with the limited venues for ties, jackets are very much in.
Jackets of all kinds.

Formal and casual sport jackets. In addition, every man should have at least one great leather jacket. Aviator, puffy jackets are out. Think lean and form fitting. Suede is great; just be prepared to take care of the material.

How to wear long-sleeve, fashionable dress shirts.

Unless you're wearing a suit for a business event, long sleeved dress shirts should be form fitting, untucked. Keep the TOP TWO buttons unbuttoned.

No more, no less.

More looks cheesy, less looks bunched up and uncomfortable.

I don't like buttoned collars - never liked them with ties, don't like them open.

Collars are broad, flat and pressed. If you aren't wearing a jacket, keep the cuffs unbuttoned and folded. Many men's shirts have two-toned patterns, meant to be folded over and shown. These are very stylish and eye-catching.

Colors by the Calendar: (PowerPoint available here... download it for free)

I've added specific timeframes by holiday to provide more specific seasonal timeframes. (Note that the fashion window for each season preceeds the official start of each season by about a month.)

Spring: (Valentine's Day/St. Patrick's Day through Mid May/Memorial Weekend.)

When you shop, think: Warm, Yellow undertones, clear, light to bright, alive

The Spring palette is warm and energetic. The Spring man's colors are friendly and extroverted, as are most Spring personalities. You do not wear dark or heavy colors well, so strive for medium-dark to light shades. All your colors must be clear, which means they look pure and clean. Avoid muted (grayed down) colors, as you will look washed out in them.

The Spring Palette

Ivory (white): The Spring man's best white is ivory, a creamy white. He may also wear Summer's soft white, but not Winter's pure white, which will make him look pale.

Black: Spring has no black, as it overpowers his coloring.

Gray: Your grays must be clear and warm, (yellow undertones) and have a bright, crisp quality. Even in wintertime you should avoid dark grays. Light grays are your very best. A medium gray will look darkish on you because of your lighter coloring.

Blue: You rmost flattering navy is a light, bright one. The next best is a darker but still bright and clear navy.

Your other blues range from a light true blue to periwinkle blues, which are blues with a violet tone. Your aquas and turquoises are plentiful, ranging from medium to bright.

Spring Color Palette

A light clear blue is good on a Spring man. Avoid any blue that is too pale or powdered. You look best in blues with depth or brightness.

Brown and Beige: Your beiges and browns range from ivory to clear warm beige to golden tan, camel, medium golden brown, and chocolate brown. You do not wear dark browns or the grayed coffee browns. Be sure to avoid wearing any muted or muddy tans, such as khaki, near your face. You can wear khaki in pants.

Gold and Yellow: Your gold is light and clear. Buff and chamois color are wonderful for you, as is bright golden yellow.

Red: The Spring man's reds are either orange-reds or clear reds. Dark reds are harsh and aging to your face, so they should be avoided. In the Spring you may also wear light rust.

Green: Yellow-greens are for you, ranging from pastel to bright.

Pink and Peach: All shades of peach, apricot, coral, salmon, and warm pink are for you. You don't have to be the least bit careful when choosing clothing in this color family. You wear them from light shades to medium and bright ones. Warm pinks are the ones with yellow in them, easy to see when compared to blue pink.

Orange: Your orange is fairly light, never as bright as Autumn's orange.

Violet: Medium violet is your version of purple. Avoid darker purples; they will look too harsh with a Spring man's coloring.

Colors by the Calendar: (PowerPoint available here... download it for free)

Part Two Here